At one minute past midnight on the third Thursday
of each November and from little villages and towns, over a million cases of
Beaujolais Nouveau begin their journey through a sleeping France to Paris for
immediate shipment to all parts of the world. Banners proclaim the good news: Le Beaujolais Nouveau est arrivé!
"The New Beaujolais has arrived!" One of the most frivolous and
animated rituals in the wine world has begun. By the time it is over, over 65
million bottles, nearly half of the region's total annual production, will be
distributed and drunk around the world. It has become a worldwide race to be
the first to serve to this new wine of the harvest. In doing so, it will be
carried by motorcycle, balloon, truck, helicopter, Concorde jet, elephant, runners
and rickshaws to get it to its final destination. It is amazing to realize that
just weeks before this wine was a cluster of grapes in a growers vineyard. But
by an expeditious harvest, a rapid fermentation, and a speedy bottling, all is
ready at the midnight hour.
Here in Conwy we celebrate our own arrival: Le Moule est arrivé! Its Conwy’s oldest industry and unlike the
Beaujolais it does not arrive on a set date. The weather plays an important
role in the timescale for the harvesting of mussels. Mussels have been gathered
in the Conwy estuary since Roman times. They were primarily collected for their
pearls and Conwy was once one of the most important pearl fisheries in the
country. In the 19th Century over 4 kilos of pearls collected from
Conwy mussels were sent each week to jewellers in London. Nowadays the mussels
are collected in considerable quantities for human consumption, they are a
popular delicacy but the season for gathering them only lasts during the winter
months when the tourists have gone! Mussels grow in clusters, attaching
themselves by means of a “byssus” which are numerous threads, produced by the
mussel its self that allows the mussel to cling to rocks or other supports such
as jetties, pier’s and gravel beaches.
Trevor Jones and his “musselmen” use 25ft long
rakes to trawl the mussel beds and once harvested the mussels are put into
purification tanks for 2 days before they are sold to restaurants and hotels
all over Wales and the UK.
Every year I look forward to the start of the Conwy
mussel season. I never use any other mussels and I’m sure once you have tried
them for your self you will agree they are the best.